Dancers on stage draw us in to the story they are telling. It is easy to become enchanted by their beautiful faces. What is it that has us so spellbound? The way dance makeup is used to intensify a dancer’s eyes contributes greatly to this. It looks incredibly complicated to achieve but with a little direction, you too can have this perfect classic dancer look!

JAM cosmetics calls the classic dance performance makeup look, Prima Diva. The most important part of this look is the expressive eyes. First we should discuss some basic contouring patterns for eye makeup. 

“Contouring” the eye means you are using darker eye shadow to create dimension.  This is done in three main ways. You can use these techniques together or separately depending on the look you wish to create.

1.   Using a dark, earthy eye shadow color, apply across the whole lash line blending the shadow to gradually fade as you go past the crease towards the brow bone.
2.   Create a blended, sideways “v” or “c” shape with contour eye shadow color, on the outer third of the eyelid.
3.   Apply contour eye shadow color in the crease.

Using these dance makeup techniques allows the audience to properly read the dancer’s eyes. You accentuate the natural shape and dimension of the eye. This helps the audience follow the dancer’s gaze. Contouring the eye with performance cosmetics helps the audience see if the dancer’s eyes are open, closed, or looking at something specifically. It also gives the eyes a larger, wider almond shape.

You will use several of these contouring methods to create the perfect dance eye in the Prima Diva look. Follow these simple steps to achieve this classic dance makeup look.

Creating the Prima Diva Look

1. Apply your foundation. Remember it is so important to BLEND, BLEND, and BLEND!

2. Shape and fill your eyebrow. Use a shadow color that is a similar o your eyebrow.

3. Highlight under the brow line with a white liner.

4. Use a light/medium, warm-toned, neutral eye shadow over the entire eyelid. When using performance cosmetics neutral/warm earth-toned eye shadows are perfect for stage performances.  They compliment dancer’s eyes and skin under the stage lights.

5. Blend a deep, rich, dark brown shadow into the crease of the eye to create dimension.

6. Define the eye by lining the upper lashes with waterproof black eye liner. Use a chocolate brown shadow underneath the lash line; apply this with a small angled brush. Don’t use liquid under the eye, it’s very messy! To complete this step, use a white pencil to create a highlight between the upper and lower lash lines.

7. Highlight the inside of lower lash line with a white eye pencil. Don’t use black liner as it will make the eye appear smaller to the audience.

8. Next, apply your false lashes. Use black mascara to coat and bind them. A false lash will enhance the natural shape of your eye.

9. Apply blush, again remember to BLEND! You certainly don’t want clown cheeks.

10. Line and the fill the entire lip in with your lip pencil. A quick tip: when lining your lips always go from the outside corner to the middle of the lip. Then fill the lips with lipstick.

Your makeup should be dark enough to be clearly seen from the first 8 to 12 rows of the theatre.  Applying performance cosmetics may seem difficult at first, especially if you have a small eye lid, but practice makes perfect!  You will be applying the Prima Diva look like a pro in no time.

Preparing for a performance you want your dance makeup to be the best it can. Applying dance makeup with good quality makeup brushes makes all the difference in the world to beauty of your look. But there are so many different kinds of makeup brushes out there. How do you know what you really need? Well, I have narrowed it down to these eight “must have” makeup brushes that every dancer should own.

1. Large Powder Brush/Complexion Brush – This should be used only with loose or pressed translucent powder. Don’t mix! Never use this powder brush with your blush.

2. Blush Brush – It shouldn’t be too big or too small – a medium sized brush is best. Again it should never be mixed with your translucent powder.

3. Eye Shadow Brush – A medium sized brush is best, not too big. This size brush is great for both light and medium shadow colors.

4. Angled Eyeliner/Brow Brush – This brush does double duty for you. It will work for both eyebrows and eyeliner application.

5. Angled Shadow Brush – Choose a smaller brush for this. It should be angled. An angled brush is best for easy application of darker shadow colors.

6. Lip Brush – This brush is essential for dance makeup. You cannot do PERFECT red lips without a lipstick brush!

7. Eyebrow Brush/Lash Comb – These brushes will keep your brows and lashes looking natural and beautiful!

8. Foundation Brush – This brush gives skin an airbrushed look when you use it will liquid, cream or stick foundations.

Now that you have the perfect set of brushes to apply your dance makeup you need to care for them properly. Proper care will keep your brushes working their best and help them last longer. It is not necessary to buy fancy brush cleaners. Often brush cleaners contain alcohol and can dry out the bristles. Makeup brushes need to be cleaned often. How often do I clean my brushes? OFTEN! When makeup brushes are dirty, the cosmetics colors do not apply well. And it leads to the colors looking muddied.

Start by putting a dollop of shampoo/conditioner into the palm of your hand. Wet your makeup brush under running water or in a cup of water. Swirl your makeup brush in the palm of your hand creating suds. You should see the suds turn from white to brown. Rinse your hands and brush under running water until the water runs clear. Finally you’ll squeeze excess water out of the makeup brush with a towel.

When your makeup brush is clean you should lay it flat on towel overnight. Do not stand brushes up to dry. When brushes are left standing water can get down into the bristles and deteriorate the glue that holds bristles to brush handle. This will shorten the life of your brush and the quality of application for your dance makeup. In an ideal situation a brush sanitizing machine would be used.

Looking for the complete set of necessary makeup brushes? JAM cosmetics has the perfect little makeup brush kit that has every makeup brush you need and nothing that you don’t for $35.00…check it out!

Jessica Dupont is a former Professional NYC Dancer and Makeup Artist. She owns JAM cosmetics, which is a line of ULTIMATE makeup for dance and cheer. Find out 4 secrets the pro’s use AND 3 things you NEED TO KNOW to look gorgeous and stand out from the crowd, by getting Jessica’s free dance makeup e-Guide at www.JAMcosmetics.net.